Lisbon --The Ultimate Party Town

Portugal is a small but geographically-diverse country and one never needs to travel far to escape the city for the beach...or vice versa!

We go from this:                                                                                                           to this:

 Salema Beach

Lisbon skyline

       in the space of 6 hours.

Our approach by train to Lisbon, one of the oldest cities in Europe, is noteworthy. We can see looming beyond the skyscrapers a tall and very familiar-looking bridge. Our train ducks momentarily into a tunnel,mand when we emerge, we find ourselves attached to the underside of the bridge. As we safely "piggyback' our way across the Tagus River, we realize we are traveling the underbelly of a replica of the Golden Gate Bridge. We find out later that the bridge, called the "25 de Abril" was designed  by same engineers that built the landmark bridge in San Francisco. 

Something else looks familiar. High on a hill beside the bridge, dominating the skyline, stands a gigantic statue of Jesus with arms opened wide. Are we in Rio? As we find out later, the "Cristo Rei" was modelled after the statue in Rio de Janeiro and, at the initiative of the cardinal of Portugal at the time who had visited Rio, was erected in 1959 as a thank you to God from the citizens for having allowed them to  stay neutral during WW2 and and be spared from its horrors.

Cristo Rei

After some confusion and missed turns from the train station, we find our hotel and head out to scope the dinner scene. There is a street nearby with the notorious designation of "Eating Lane", and, dodging the aggressive greeters trying their best to entice you in, we find a recommended restaurant and enjoy a quick meal of BBQ chicken (I know...we are in Portugal...but one can eat only so much fish)

Later, as we wander streets around the hotel, we notice crowds gathering behind barriers along the Main Street. A large TV screen showing tourism ads sits in the Center of the square. We soon figure out that a parade is scheduled to pass by. By this a time we have a front position along the fence and don't  want to leave. Over an hour later, the TV screen begins to show performances that are happening live at the start of the parade route. Thirty minutes later, the first of many groups dances by. We are watching the Marchas Popularas, the opening event of the famous St.Anthony's Festival, which brings thousands of people to the streets of Lisbon to celebrate. 

Dancing groups in the Marchas Paradas

The St. Anthony's Festival is the biggest annual event in Lisbon and takes place every year in June. It is a celebration of Portugal’s patron saint, Santo Antonio, to whom many miracles have been attributed. As the story goes, the 13th century priest became depressed that the locals would not listen to his sermons and wandered to the shore to confide in the fish. Suddenly, row upon row of fish, especially sardines, of all shapes and sizes raised their heads above the waves to listen. The amazed townspeople were witness to this miracle and ever since, sardines have become a traditional meal on St. Anthony's Day. Streets all over Lisbon are filled with outdoor grills covered with the little fish that locals enjoy between slabs of fresh bread. There is a pervading aroma of fish all over the city.

Leftover decorations of the St. Anthony's Fiesta

In addition to the parade and sardine-eating frenzy, the people of Lisbon also hold a mass marriage event in which hundreds of couples tie the knot and make the most of the occasion to celebrate their nuptials, with continuous free concerts and all-night parties in the decorated plazas all over the city. The party goes on all night...YES, ALL NIGHT! We could still hear the revellers at 6am the next morning outside our hotel, and when we peeked out our window many were still holding on to a beer.

 Grilling sardines

Despite my research on Portugal when planning this trip, I somehow missed knowing about this huge event. We do manage to stay at  the prime viewing spot to watch a few dancing groups pass. But tiredness sets in, and the crowds are increasing in number and unruliness. We also notice a heightened police presence. By now it is late and feeling apprehensive about the thousands of people in the streets, of which a large number are already inebriated, and knowing that things could easily escalate, we decide to call it a night and sneak through back streets to return to the hotel.

So ends our first night in Lisbon. We are amazed the next morning when we leave our hotel by how quickly the street has been cleaned and evidence of the rowdiness has virtually disappeared. Today we plan to use a walking tour company to give us an overview of the best sights of the city. We have such limited time in Lisbon that we feel a local expert could help us better understand the workings of the capitol city of Portugal.

Tbis local hung around the Giinjinha Shop, sporting a huge grin as he watched the tourists try the unusual cherry liqueur

Our 3 hour walking tour is almost private  with only three of us participating. Our guide Miguel, (who tells us that he about to become a father of twins), is very personable and passionate about his city. We walk all over the old town, and as he explains the various historical and cultural sights, he stresses the importance and underappreciated contribution of Portugal to the way the free world has evolved. He too emphatically believes that Vasco da Gama's trade-finding mission to India was the starting point of modern western society. Because of de Gama's bravery, he tells us, we as modern-day travelers are able to explore the world with relative ease. Hmmm....I really need to review my European history, as I don't seem to remember such a connection. But it does all make sense...and I send a private thanks to Vasco for allowing me to be here.

Our Lisbon Guide Miguel

Later on our own, we explore more thoroughly the different neighbourhoods, revisiting areas that look interesting. We aren't sure where we want to be for dinner, but somehow we end up back in the Alfama neighbourhood. Characterized by a maze of narrow windy streets, hidden plazas and traditional restaurants, the Alfama survived the great earthquake of 1755 so never needed reconstruction. It is considered to be a trendy place to hang out. We choose a restaurant recommended by Miguel, one that is owned, designed and operated by a circus group. We eat under a huge circus style dome. The food is good and the atmosphere is funky.  Unfortunately we are surrounded by smokers as we are on a designated patio, so smoking is allowed. Having to breathe toxic fumes does not create a positive eating experience...we leave as quickly as we can!

Funky street art is everywhere

Our final day in Lisbon is not really spent in Lisbon, but rather in the tiny and very touristy town of Sintra. About 30 minutes by train from Lisbon, it has a fairytale castle, mysterious and romantic monastery ruins and an opulent palace.  Put all of this together inside a large and beautifully landscaped garden/park and you have a recipe for a tourist trap. Although we visit all three sights and wander through the maze of tourist shops, our best experience is walking in the gardens down from the Pena Palace at the top, pass the Monastery and into the village. Although the Monastery was quite atmospheric and the gardens beautiful and peaceful, we once again are glad to leave.

The Park around Pena Castle was beautiful and full of surprises

Caught in the web of a tourist trap...

We make up for the less than satisfying day with a unique brewery experience and end it with a meal to remember.

We heard that Lisbon had a brewery similar to Whistler's Brewhouse. We discover it is more like a Beer Hall that one would find in Germany. The Cervejaria da Trindade was once a monastery. It is beautifully decorated with historic tiles depicting Christian and Masonic motifs. Gregorian chant can be heard softly in the background. What??... In a beer hall? The place is virtually empty (this being about 4pm) so we guess that the only excuse for the lack of customers must be that the somber atmosphere and generally rowdy beer-drinking clientele really do not match. We each have a beer and actually enjoy the feeling of peace and opportunity for spiritual contemplation.

Drinking to Gregorian chant

 Len had read about a restaurant called Casa do Alentejo that was somewhat hidden along a busy street of restaurants. You enter through an unmarked door and the restaurant is upstairs. We find the building easily. Inside the door there is a single paper taped to the wall with the word "Restaurant" and an arrow pointing up some stairs. It all seems rather sketchy but we bravely forge ahead. And we are so glad we do! At the top is a stunning Moorish-inspired courtyard, with tiled walls, carved wood panels, and a fountain surrounded by exotic plants in the center. The place exudes the atmosphere of 17th century aristocratic life. As we continue upstairs we are amazed by the opulent decor and classical though shabby furnishings. We pass a room with mirrors and a sumptuously-decorated ballroom. We find out later that the building was built in the 17th century and began as a palace and home to the Portuguese viscounts of Alverca. It was also at one time a bordello, a high school and a casino until it evolved into it present day use as a meeting place for the Alentejo (mid to south western Portugal) community.

We notice the empty restaurant area and realize we were about 15 minutes early for dinner so sit down to wait. Others begin trickling in, some to gawk at the lavish decor and others to wait for the dinner service.

In the end we have a memorable meal, simple and inexpensive, with great service in an extraordinary setting. It just takes a little bravery to climb those stairs into the unknown...