The Duoro Valley--all things wine!

The pace of our travels suddenly slows...we are spending two full days in the Duoro Valley, with no agenda.

Views from the deck at our Quinta accommodation

This Unesco World Heritage Site is a cultural landscape that covers over 100,000 acreas of vineyards along. the Duoro River and its tributaries. Like champagne, a true Port wine originates from Porto and the Duoro valley and all facets of the production from the grapevine right to the bottling must be done the region. The area has been producing wine since the early 1700s, in conditions that are extreme--temperatures that  are unbearably hot in the summer, freezing in the winter, on soils that are made up mostly of slate rock and on steep slopes that have been terraced to allow for the planting of the vines. As a result, the grapes are small and intense, not so perfect for regular wine production, but when fortified with other ingredients, create the unique and delicious port wines. 

Terraced vineyards

Our goals here in this beautiful valley are to rest, taste and learn about port wine and walk/ hike in the vineyards. We chose a tiny town on the banks of the Duoro called Pinhao for our base. We also chose a spectacular family-owned and operated Quinta (pronounced Keen-tah), or estate farm, for our accommodation. In addition to  producing award-winning wines and provide tastings, the family runs a B&B and can provide dinner if requested. Our river-view room is in the main building overlooking the river, and we spend much time on the nearby deck watching the boats glide by.

On our first evening we have reserved the quinta's three-course dinner with wine pairings. We are to be in the wine storage room at 7:30,  and at 7:28 we follow a line of others down through the garden and into a large building. Three long tables have been placed beside the hundreds of barrels stacked along the wall. Each table has been set for 10 people and cards with room names have been placed at each setting. At our table is a older couple from England, two 40yr old women from the US, a young couple from Switzerland, and a older couple (from France, we think, as we never had a chance to chat with them). We are served three courses, each paired with wine or port. The conversation is lively, the food and wine are excellent, and, with candles flickering among 100 year old oak barrels, the atmosphere is magical! It is another situation of random strangers coming together and having an instant connection. We will definitely be having dinner at the Quinta again!

I did it! I ate the fish with ALL parts still attached!

Dinner in  the Quinta wine cellar

Even after walking over 100kms the previous week, our feet are itching for a trail to follow. It was recommended to us to hike 2 1/2 hours to a small village of Provensende on the top of the hill above Pinhao. Apart from a church, main square, bar, soccer field and few dozen historical homes, there is not much else to see or do there. Even the village's one restaurant opens only if you call ahead to reserve a meal. It will be the "process" of getting there, not the destination that will motivate us.

We follow a rather sketchy map printed out for us by the Quinta staff. It is hard to read, the path goes steeply up the hill and of course we get lost...which turns out to be a blessing because, although we are off the trail at one point, we find ourselves at a fabulous vista point, overlooking an immense valley, with wine-makers signs dotting the slopes amid the patterns of vines. Eventually we return to the trail and walk into the small village.  An old guy seemingly stands guard outside a local bar and grins at us as we, out of breath and still sweating, step inside to find water. "Bom tarde" we say and smile back. The Portuguese are a friendly and curious people, and we never have felt to be intrusion in their lives. If only we could speak the language....I would have a lot of questions for the old man!

On the trail again in the Duoro Valley

The hike almost did us in and the steep hills we need to climb for any hike do not motivate us. So we find a different way explore the valley.  One afternoon we book a boat tour that takes us upstream. By now, the weather has improved, and the rain is less threatening. We sit back, relax and enjoy the breathtaking scenery and the complimentary glass of port. 

Rabelo boat

As well, we manage a couple of tastings/tours in our short stay. And I am proud to say I know more about port wine now that I ever have. I also have newfound appreciation for the people who work the land to establish the vines, then see the production from beginning to end to create the sweet and flavourful drink. We especially enjoy the Bomfim Quinta, which has been run by generations of the Symington family for over 200 years. It is a professional tour and unique tasting experience that takes us through exquisite facilities and beautiful landscaped property.  Afterwards, sun comes out and we sit out on the Quinta's beautiful deck on the river and enjoy another glass of port. It is a moment where nothing else matters but the feeling of the sun's warmth on my skin, the velvety sweetness of the port in my mouth, the wonder of being in such a surreal environment and the love I feel for my husband. 

A perfect mmoment at Quinta Bomfin

It has been a quiet and relaxing few days in the Duoro Valley, but we are anxious to move on to Porto to where the production of the port wine ends, and becomes ready for the consumer. It will be the last leg of our Portuguese adventure.