Marrakech...and Morroco in retropect

With only one full day in Marrakech, we wanted to maximize our time and experience the best of the Old city. I read about a local guide whose half day tour of the Medina promises "no shopping stops", but rather highlights cultural and historical features. We met Rachid, our guide, near the main square, and, along with 3 women from New Zealand, were introduced to the essence of this Imperial City. As we walked he told us about some interesting Moroccan laws and myths about the Muslim culture. This is when we found out about that fact that although Islam forbids the drinking of alcohol, many choose to imbibe in the privacy of their home. We also learned that Moroccans are adverse to change and for laws to be accepted by the people takes many years. One example is mandatory helmets for motorcyclists (of which there are many)--currently it is the law to wear one, but most people simply carry one on the bike, only putting it on in certain areas they know have police checks.

Jemaa el-Fnaa--the hub of the Medina in Marrakesh

Marrakech has the largest Berber market in the world. The Medina, which centers around the UNESCO World Heritage site Jemaa El-Fnaa square, is a confusing maze of intrically-connected alleyways. It is divided into retail areas called souks, and, like Fes, one can find and bargain for virtually anything. Rachid led us through the large Jewish district and into the heart of the Medina, where the craftsmen have their workshops and locals and vendors buy at wholesale prices (the tourist stalls with inflated prices are in a different area). We sampled fresh orange juice and Berber "pancakes" from street vendors. We ended our tour (which was very informative and well-worth the higher price in order to avoid the "shopping" experience) in the main square and decided to grab a table high up overlooking the square to soak up the scene and have some lunch. We watched the people mill about, and witnessed the tactics of snake-charmers, herbalists, tour guide "touts", acrobats and other entertainers as they solicited unwary tourists for money. It was an iconic scene, one which most only see or hear described in movies and books. We were happy to be observers for a while, safely removed from the action.

Even though we were lost in the Medina at this point, I was distracted by this wall!

Later, feeling confident, we ventured on our own into the Medina in search of a popular photography museum. Of course, we got totally lost. Luckily, we stumbled upon another small museum focussing on "popular" art of Morocco. After a quick look-see, we got directions to our original destination (actually not too far away). The photography museum, which displayed old photos of life in Marrakech, was excellent and worth the effort to navigate in and out of the medina. I am happy to report that, even after spending a whole day in the Medina (and 11 days in total in Morocco), being enticed from all sides to buy, we did not succumb to any sales pitch to buy a rug. We came away from Marrakech empty-handed, but full of vivid memories (and awesome photos) of an amazing, vibrant and culturally-rich city.

In general, Morocco both charmed and surprised us. We saw some incredible scenery, gained a small understanding of the culture and witnessed the daily activities of a proud yet welcoming people. Many times we were asked to tell others to come to Morocco. Tourism is bringing wealth and prosperity to the country as the government has been heavily investing in initiatives to make Morocco one of the top 20 travel destinations in the world. The opportunity to experience the culture, history, landscapes and people is something for which I am very grateful. We know we only touched a small part of a beautiful country but will probably not return. There are too many other amazing places in the world to explore.

Surreal!